Dusty Roads and Majestic Mountains

Dusty Roads and Majestic Mountains

We loaded in two (or maybe three?) taxis that Chase and Lacey had waiting for us outside of the airport.  After shy hugs and greetings, I was put into a taxi with Lacey and my grandchildren.  Lacey would periodically speak to the driver in Nepali, making sure he took the most efficient way home.  We were introduced quickly to the “dusty road” which was full of holes and bumps, people and animals, shops and homes… Lacey was pointing out places of importance and chattering away, answering questions and directing the taxi driver.  It was awful and delightful at the same time!  So far, Kathmandu looked much like I’d expected.  Having visited both a small village town and a big city in India before, I knew there would be harrowing vehicle rides down unpaved streets where vehicles of all types are driving harum-scarum down the road, honking and dodging one another.  I knew there would be dust and unusual smells and many things at which to gawk.  There would also be many people going about their daily lives.  I was not disappointed.  Ajay loved it all!  Having lived most of his young life in this city, he knew his way around as well as Lacey.  He was proud and excited to show me his school as we passed by! 

House of Children - Ari and Ajay's School

 It wasn’t long until we turned onto more crowded, narrower city streets and wound our way through Boudha. 

The streets were cobblestone and dust.  We passed by homes over little shops, dogs lying lazily in the streets, and high walls that separated the street-life from Monasteries.  We squeezed past other vehicles and pulled up to the green gate that would soon become very familiar.  It opened to a beautiful green space that was the courtyard and outdoor dining area for the hotel where we would stay. 

Pronounce - Seedy Monica + mana

Beautiful green courtyard as you enter hotel

Hotel entrance view - Moores apartment top floor straight ahead
with rooftop to the right of the picture

As the other taxies arrived and we began pulling off our 18 plus bags, we realized what I already was aware of, but had not thought about until then…this was the home of the Moore family and they lived on the fourth floor!  As the team checked in, they were pleased to know they would be staying on the first floor!  But we had nine suitcases that were to be picked up by families in just a short while that we didn’t want to carry up the four floors and then bring back down!  Thankfully, out of courtesy for their customers, the hotel worker allowed us to leave them on the first floor.  And it was time for Mickey and me to make our way up to see where our children and grandchildren lived and called home. 

The hotel is really beautiful.  It is owned by a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery.   It is new construction of brick and mortar – one reason it held up so well during the earthquake, but is decorated with Tibetan Buddhist symbols and artwork.  As you enter the lobby, there is a huge sculpture that leaves no doubt about worship practices of the proprietors.

As you turn to the right and begin up the stairs there are wheels readily available to be turned for the purpose of koura and more wheels at every landing.  On some of the floors there are large wooden sculptures that appear to be ancient – and they are a work of art, for sure.  Finally, huffing and puffing, we came to the fourth floor apartment.  There is a large marble tile exterior room, which leads onto the rooftop.  From the rooftop, there is a beautiful view of Boudha, and if it is a clear day, a peek of the Himalayan whitecaps. 

We stopped and took off our shoes.  This is always done in Asia – no matter where you are.  To wear shoes indoors is considered unwholesome, disgusting, and rude.  So, our shoes joined the pile of shoes in the interior room – one that would be considered a “bonus” room in America.  It had been used over the years as a storage area, a bike-riding space, a place for a dryer, and the entrance/exit to the apartment.  Because the apartment is on the top floor of a hotel, it has a bank of windows in the living room, which provide amazing sunshine, and heat in the winter months.  Each day the floor to ceiling curtains are pulled back to fill the room with light and reveal the city below.  The bedrooms are opposite to the bank of windows, each with their own balcony over-looking the courtyard and the city on the other side.  The bathrooms (of which there were actually three) were upscale and would rival any you would find in a nice hotel in the US.  They have Western toilets and actually have glass shower walls and a shower door!  The apartment is really nice and comfortable.  I would recommend anyone visiting Kathmandu to stay at Hotel Siddhi Manakamana.  The team was served a complimentary breakfast each morning with their rooms in the courtyard outdoor dining area.  It was reportedly, delicious. 

We were responsible for our own food during our stay since the Moores were not considered guests of the hotel.

Everyone checked in and settled down for a moment - but time was fleeting.  We arrived in KTM around noon and Chase was bound and determined to help the team begin to adjust to the time change.  He gently pushed everyone to keep moving until 8 pm that night so the team could rise early and head into the mountains.  Supper was served at a local favorite restaurant that satisfied everyone. A small tour of Bouhda, the neighborhood, and the Stupa helped acclimate the Westerners to life in Asia.  At first glance the third world system of electrical wiring was jaw dropping, the smells of spices and dirt was overwhelming, and the honking of horns from motorcycles close behind walkers a little frightening.  It made me smile to walk down the cobbled road beside a cow that was otherwise being ignored.

 

The tired troupe finally gave into exhaustion one by one and everyone settled in for a few hours sleep anxiously looking forward to the Himalayan sunrise!